Making Curtains & Hanging Curtains : How To The cost of having curtains made up often reduces us to the necessity of purchasing a low cost material which is so cheap that it, in turn, hardly warrants the trouble and expense of making up. Thus we are often thrown into a state of dissatisfaction; we miss the pleasure of having something new and pretty for our home. Curtain making, other than the simplest varieties, is such a bugaboo to most of us that we are fairly scared off from even attempting it. Yet making curtains requires nothing more than careful measurements, careful basting and careful stitching. Equipped with a yard stick - never measure by a tape, as it stretches - a good size table or bed, a straight eye and an endless number of pins, we may begin the actual work. First we must decide from where the curtains are to be hung. Scrim curtains should be hung next to the glass, and they should reach to the sill. The top should have a small French heading, and the bottom a good size hem that has been turned in twice to give the curtain weight, thus making it hang better. The hem should be hemstitched, if possible. This finish adds perceptibly to the appearance of the curtain. Unless the scrim is very fine, the work can be done in short order. A small brass rod should be firmly attached to the inside trim with screws, not tacks. The curtain may be run on the rod through the hem of the French heading. A French heading, by the way, means turning a wide hem and stitching it both at the hem and a little above, leaving a heading. If you want to use rings, take groups of little plaits and at each group sew on a ring. As the fullness has been thus evenly distributed by the groups of plaits, the curtain does not sag between rings when pulled together. The little plaits can be whatever size is necessary. When one curtain is finished see that it is absolutely accurate, and then pin the others by it. In planning over drapes we should study our room to see what length is most appropriate. In the lower floor rooms long curtains give a better appearance, whereas in the bedrooms, curtains to the sill give the better appearance. They also keep clean longer and are less formal. Of course, if the room is large and rather elegant, it will need the full length curtains. Over-draperies should come just below the sill. The same space should be left all around to show the woodwork. If the windows are narrow put the curtains back on the woodwork. If the woodwork is unattractive and we wish all the light and air possible, the whole trim may be entirely covered. Usually this is not a good practice. A window is an architectural feature of a room, and should be given full value as such. Windows are made to let in the sunshine and fresh air, and they should not be swathed up in yards of stuffy materials. Select a flat surface in the molding, and screw the fixtures for the rods securely into the woodwork. Then measure from the level of the rod down to a point below the sill - say two inches. Add to this measurement four inches for the two inch hem and two and one half inches for the top hem and heading. If rings are used, a double stitching on the heading gives it more firmness. There are various ways to make the top of the curtain. The curtain may be simply run on to the rod. If you prefer it may be shirred at the desired width on a tape, with or without heading, or with a French plait such as I have described, or with a box plaiting. The last is attractive although it takes more material. Personally I prefer the simple French plaited heading. Box plaiting must be done with absolute accuracy, as it shows very plainly the flaws in measurement. Nothing gives a window a more professional look than a cord and pulley adjustment. It also adds much to the life of a curtain, as the material itself is not handled and can be quietly drawn apart to any distance. Curtain makers always charge an absurdly large amount for this adjustment. You can do it yourself and save the money. The parts may be bought at any department store and may be adjusted very easily. There is only one way to do it, and it must be done carefully. The following instructions will make the method clear. Put the curtains, with the rings attached, on the rod. Fasten the double pulley on the right end of the curtain rod just inside the bracket, and the single pulley on the left end in the same position. The cord must be long enough to reach across the window, back, then up and down the length of the window, about to the sill. Run the cord through the right hand pulley. Then tie the cord at the middle of its whole length to the ring at the right hand front end of the right hand curtain. Next, slip the cord through the left hand pulley and tie it to the front edge of the left hand curtain, pulling the cord taut enough to bring the curtains just together at the middle. Then put the cord through the right hand double pulley, and attach the weighted balls at the two ends of the cord. That is all! The pulleys cost about seventy-five cents a pair, the cord six cents a yard, and the balls fifty cents apiece. The lining of curtains is also a very simple piece of work. The sateen lining should be cut two inches narrower than the material. Both edges of the curtain should be stitched up on the wrong side. This leaves the material coming out beyond the lining one inch on either side. 
Shaped, fitted valance bound with taffeta. The linen curtain is trimmed with an inch-and-a-half band.
Stitch across the bottom and turn the curtain inside out. The inch of turned-back material adds to the appearance of the curtains, for when the edge is turned over a little, we see the material, not the lining. The top has to be blind-stitched. Here too the material should come to the depth of the heading so that if the curtain falls over the top, the sateen lining will not show. Cretonne curtains do not usually need a lining. Linen, however, being of a loser texture, loses the pattern entirely when the light comes through, and therefore demands a lining. Valances may have the same heading as the hangings, but, to be used effectively, the height of the room and the windows must be considered. A valance all the way across shortens the height of a window, but a valance hung between the curtains shows the long, unbroken line from top to bottom. A shaped valance is always attractive. It may be made of sail cloth and lined. A paper pattern had better be cut first to avoid any miscalculations. Tacked on to thin laths, the shaped valance or lambrequin may be put on to the trim very easily. Now for the last bit of advice in making curtains: Measure accurately, cut carefully, and always allow enough. Next Page: Portieres, Door Hangings, Doorway Curtains. | 